Jewellery @en 9 janvier 2013

Artist jewellery

Jewelers turn more and more to artists, sculptors and architects to create their jewelry.

Ron Arad à la Galerie Béatrice Saint Laurent.- Boucles d’oreilles Hot Ingo

Bulgari invited Anish Kapoor to reinterpret their B-Zero 1. Fred worked together with Jean-Paul Goode. Tiffany&Co collaborated for a collection with Frank Gehry. As for the Brazilian jeweler H.Stern, he drew inspiration from designs by Oscar Niemeyer. From the between-wars period onwards many artists have explored this territory, from Arman, Magritte, Cocteau and Man Ray to Ben and Picasso. But it’s only from the 1970s that this kind of jewelry became more widely known. Dinh Van exhibited the breast pendant by César, with its mould taken from a dancer at the Crazy Horse, which was then miniaturized. Thanks goes especially to the gallery Artcurial and its philosophy of making art part of every day life. It offers an entire space dedicated to these pieces whose value is due more to their high-level of creativity than to the materials used, like Sonia Delaunay’s enamel brooches or Lalanne’s gilt-metal necklaces featuring berry fruits, leaves and also butterflies. Artists would challenge jewelry’s basic constraints when reconsidering the size and weight of pieces: César no longer compacted cars but gold chain bracelets, rings and necklaces which were metamorphosed into pendants. For Stella McCartney, Jeff Koons downsized his rabbit. “It’s also a way to see their work, once miniaturized, can arouse the same level of emotion”, explains gallery owner Pierre-Alain Challier. Along with often being highly creative and full of humor, artist-jewelry can also be sentimental with many examples being created for family and close friends. Calder began sculpting necklaces for his sister’s doll. The collector, Diane Vernet recounts the day when her husband, Bernard, spontaneously wound metal wire around his finger. “For Picasso, it’s clearly question of seduction, a way of saying I desire you or I love you”, explains Pierre-Alain Challier. It is never really a question of producing a series of jewelry pieces; they are often edited in just a few examples or even just as a one-off piece.

*Bijoux d’artistes aux éditions Flammarion


Jewellery @en 26 novembre 2013


There are thousands of unusual gemstones around today, and they are attracting more and more jewellers’ attention.
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Sylvie Corbelin / Delfina Delettrez  / Ornella-Iannuzzi

Home page picture : MArc Auclert - Bague perle plate d'agate rubannee

  “There is nothing that looks more like a diamond than another diamond!” exclaims the jewellery creator, Marc Auclert, who has featured amongst the ranks of top jewellers for a long time now. So, what a challenge! Creators are the greatest promoters of unusual gemstones, which exist in their thousands, and which are not always pretty at first glance. But they do quickly attract attention and with it raise a thousand questions. Ornella Iannunzi, who quit France for England, has made a big hit out of golden pyrites, especially when it is still nestled in its black-rock matrix: “It’s nature’s work of art which always produced sighs of wonderment.” For other creators like Delfina Delettrez, it is heliotrope or howlite... There is another side, however, to these unusual gemstones, as interest in them is still relatively small, their prices remain reasonable. “It’s the creator’s job to draw out their visual power and value,” explains the antique dealer and creator Sylvie Corbelin, who herself works with ringed agate and crystalline dendrites. For the moment, a gram of pyrites costs between 3 to 5 euros according to its beauty, but all it needs is a bit of interest shown in them by the houses on Place Vendôme and their prices will skyrocket. Just like it did for opals.